|
|
Afghanistan
Capital: Kabul
Afghanistan - very ancient country which was under the power of the
Greek, Indian, Iranian, Arabian and Mongolian governors, therefore the
quantity of the diversified monuments of history is simply huge.
Beautiful mountains, valleys and lakes create bewitching unearthly
landscape. However, because of an astable political situation the
country is inaccessible to visiting of tourists.
The most safe way to visit Afghanistan is to arrive in country capital
- Kabul. This city is rather safe for tourists. Here it is necessary to
visit the Kabul museum, with a magnificent collection of Buddhist
exhibits, and a garden of Babur. Kabul has some good restaurants and
the clubs which doors are hospitably opened for foreigners. If it will
be possible to obtain the permit for travel out of capital it is
necessary to visit a valley of Paghman to the West from Kabul where
among gardens and mountains rich country houses of the old Afghani
nobility are located.
The second-large city of Jelalabad was in due time the attractive
winter resort literally lost among thickets of a cypress and blossoming
orchards. Mazar-i-Sharif is known for the mosque in which there is a
tomb of a caliph of Ali, the son-in-law of prophet Mohammed. The city
of Herat located close to the Iranian border always was rather safe
place for travellers. Here it is necessary to examine walls of an old
city and the Great Mosque. In a city of Ghazni ruins of "old
Ghazni» and two majestic towers in height of 43 metres are
attractive. The city of Kandahar in all centuries was famous for east
markets, here some fine mosques and a tomb of the first emir of
Afghanistan Ahmad Shaha.
Geography
Afghanistan - the state in the southwest of Central Asia, not having an
outlet to the sea. In the north borders on Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and
Tajikistan, in the east - with China, India.
History
Afghanistan is mentioned for the first time in VI century BC when it
has been included in the Persian empire Ahemenidov. About 330 years BC
Afghanistan has been won by Alexander the Great. After Alexander's
death the country was under the power of the Greek, Indian and Iranian
governors. In the middle of VII century AD the country was won by
Arabs, whose influence has appeared the strongest and proceeded till
1220 when the country was won by Genghis Khan armies. Under the power
of Mongols the country was till XIV century.
Power of radical Afghans has started to grow in a XVII-th century and
in 1747 after the next revolt against the Iranian sovereignty there was
a first Afghani state led by the emir Ahmad Shahom whom named "the
Pearl of the Century". However subsequently emirat has broken up. In
the beginning of a XIX-th century after the anarchy period in power in
Afghanistan there is Dost Muhammad the Khan who has accepted in 1835 a
title of the emir.
From the middle of a XIX-th century Russia and Great Britain combated
for influence on the country, in 1907 between them the contract on a
recognition of integrity of Afghanistan has been signed. Till 1973
Afghanistan remained a monarchy. In 1973 as a result of a military coup
d'etat the republic has been proclaimed. In 1978 there was a next
bloody revolution in which result to the power Revolutionary council
has come.
In the end of December, 1979 the Soviet armies which were there till
February, 15th, 1989 have entered into Afghanistan. The limited
contingent took active part in operations therefore 15000 Soviet
soldiers were lost at least. However and after a withdrawal of Soviet
troops civil war proceeded and on April, 16th, 1992 armies of rebels
have grasped Kabul. However, and after that between various fractions
operations proceed. As last example to it is served by fights between
the governmental armies and powerful grouping "Taliban" with the centre
in Kandahar. Afghanistan is a member of the United Nations, the World
bank, IMF.
Climate
Subtropical, continental, droughty, with sharp daily and annual fluctuations of temperatures.
In Kabul which is at height of 1830 m above sea level, cold winters and
warm summer in July + 25. °s, in January from 0°С to +
7°С). Loss of deposits, mainly in the winter and in the spring,
does not exceed 375 mm. On northern plain average temperature of July +
30°С, January + 2°С (at the minimum temperatures to - 20
°s). Only in the southeast of Afghanistan where action of the
Indian monsoon affects, summer rains are observed, and hillsides here
receive to 800 mm of deposits. In Dzhe-lalabade (550 m above sea level)
a climate subtropical, in Kandahar (1070 m above sea level) - soft.
The population
The population aggregate number is estimated approximately in 31,9
million persons, about 6,5 million Afghans now lives outside of the
country.
The national structure is very diverse: pushtuny (pahtun, pashto) - 42
%, Tadjiks - 27 %, hazara (hazarejtsy - iranojazychnye Shiits of the
Mongolian origin) - 9 %, Uzbeks - 9 %, beludzhi (balohi) - 2 %,
charajmaki, Tadjiks, Turkmans and other people.
Religion
Islam - official religion of Afghanistan. About 80 % of the population
practise Islam sunnitskogo sense, to 19 % - Islam of Shiit sense, also
is induisty and sikhi (mainly in Jelalabad, Kabul and Kandahar).
Kitchen
The Afghani kitchen - one of the most ancient on a planet. In an
everyday life Afghans manage rather poor set of dishes - various
variants plova and a shish kebab, every possible dense soups, rice and
pasta accompanied by indispensable flat cakes "naan", cheese and tea.
The great value is occupied with milk and dairy products. However, even
despite long-term war and scarcity of assortment of products
(prirodno-environmental conditions bolshej parts of territory of the
country are very uneasy for cultivation of agricultural cultures), the
best samples of local cookery are widely known outside of Afghanistan.
National meal
The most typical Afghani dish - "shish-kebab", representing a kind of a
shish kebab with the slices of meat strung on skewers, fat and
vegetables. Are very similar to it "jacket-kebab", or "kyofta-kebab"
(prepares from rublenogo meat with onions), "shami-kebab" from
rublenogo the meat mixed with jajtsom and vegetable mashed potatoes,
"mortuaries-kebab" (from meat of a chicken), "tas-kebab" (the beef
fried in boiling oil, then boiled in fault) and other "kebaby", however
by more steadfast consideration all these dishes very considerably
differ from each other, and prepare them a little differently, than in
other countries of the Central Asia. The second for the importance and
distribution a dish - plov which is totaled also by tens kinds,
including "kabli-pilav", or "kabuli-pilav" (plov from rice and
jagnjatiny with it is thin the cut carrots and raisin), and also
"palau-e-shahs" (plov from rice, jagnjatiny, kurdjuchnogo fat, raisin,
pistachios and a carnation). In plov fowl, beef or mutton rebryshki,
and also various vegetables and set of spices can be used.
Also are popular tushennaja with vegetables mutton, "feed-sabzi"
(stewed beef or jagnjatina with spinach, spices and a vegetable
garnish), "forage" (the same "feed-sabzi", only instead of spinach
yellow peas "daul-nahud" are used), "jacket", or "kyofta" (original
meat quenelles), "kurma" (zharennoe fowl with onions and tomatoes), a
stewed lamb in own juice "chainaki", and also set of simple dishes from
a hem and other offal with fig. Usually to plovu and to other meat
dishes move yoghurt, cheese, salty vegetables "torshi", a piquant
sauce, and also various garnishes from meat, grain, vegetables or bean.
So a wide circulation soups, first of all "shorba" ("shurpa") with rice
or "shorma" with vegetables, zharennaja in milk river fish have
"shir-moves", every possible broths (meat to them moves separately),
"mushava" - soup from bean and yoghurt and other.
Vegetative dishes include ubiquitous "burani" ("borani") from an
eggplant, an onions and tomatoes ("burani-bonzhan" - with yoghurt,
"kadu-burani" - with a pumpkin etc.) "turshi-bonzhan" (a salty stuffed
eggplant), "bonzhan-salad" (salad from eggplants), "olva" (similarity
of the fried cream of wheat), "sher-berindzh" (a rice pudding), "osh"
(noodles with bean, meat and yoghurt), "chatni-gashniz" (chatni with a
coriander), "osh-pozi" (stuffed onions), "oshi-zhur-routi" (rice with a
yellow string bean), original pelmeni "ashtak" (are filled with
vegetables, meat and an onions), "mantu" (kletski with meat and an
onions, are really similar on manty), "samusi-jirakot" - (semicircular
pies with a stuffing from vegetables, meat and cheese), and also simple
boiled rice with various seasonings and a boiled or fried potato
("kartoff-mumulaj"). Spices are very various, since traditional karri
or the ground stones of grapes submitted to meat dishes, and finishing
"havaje" (a mix of a ground coriander, black pepper, caraway seeds and
kurkumy) or sauce from black pepper, vinegar and oil.
All dishes are accompanied by flat and long flat cakes "naan" which do
practically of any flour which have got under a hand (sometimes in the
dough add a potato or an onions), and more often them do not bake, and
fry on an iron frying pan in clay furnaces or on the stones heated in
the centre.
For a dessert move "firni" (a dairy pudding with pistachios), tens
kinds of halvah, "bichak" (original pies from pumpkin mashed potatoes
with meat, cheese and even jam, move both hot, and cold), cookies
"gosh-fil", sweet puddings, and also the candied nutlets, vegetables
and fruit. In the country various local fruits for a dessert -
sladchajshie melons (are especially good mazari-sharifskie and
majmanskie), grapes, a pomegranate (the best grades - from Kandahar),
apples, pears, apricots, oranges (are good dzhelalabadskie), here,
plums, and also walnuts, pistachios and almonds - favourite local snack
are grown up.
Drinks
National drink, undoubtedly, is tea ("teas"), both black, and green
which is consumed in extreme quantities. Usually tea is made very
strong and moves without sugar, in small (on 2-3 cups) a metal teapot.
Alcoholic drinks in this Islamic country can be found only import and
only in the institutions focused on Europeans. Afghans afford only a
special low alcohol drink from sbrozhennogo milk like koumiss.
Safety
Despite an uneasy situation with the general political stability in the
country and constant skirmishes between numerous local groupings,
Afghanistan is enough safe country. In big cities at every turn
representatives of forces of the Coalition, local army and police, and
in a province the order is supported by groups of local communities,
and both those and others rigidly enough and uncompromisingly carry out
the functions (often so rigidly that they can represent much bigger
danger, than hypothetical terrorists). It concerns also to the general
hostility of a foreign military contingent to tourists, and aspirations
of local bodies of the law and order in every possible way to protect
the tourist from "the troubles", pouring out usually in a policy "to
hold and not pushchat". In this case it is necessary to address at once
to officers of bodies of the law and order (easily to distinguish on
white cockardes on headdresses) whom it is ready terpimee and it is
more correct than the subordinates.
The separate problem is represented by attempt of many local residents
frankly to "earn additionally" on foreigners, increasing the price on
anything you like at the sight of that in times. Usually it concerns
journalists and representatives of the international humanitarian
organisations whom Afghans frankly gather, therefore in the presence of
a step and ability to speak this problem it is easy enough to bypass -
to usual tourists the relation here absolutely other - friendly and
interested, irrespective of a nationality.
Many western editions strenuously advance the thesis that in
Afghanistan threat of abduction and murder of foreigners, especially
out of Kabul is highest, however the passionless statistics asserts
that here it happens not more often, than in Pakistan or northern areas
of India. At observance of local customs and banal receptions of
maintenance of a personal security to travel across Afghanistan is not
more difficult at all, than on any other country of region.
The main danger - mines and not broken off ammunition, which in the
local earth extreme quantity. Cities and large settlements are checked
carefully up by sappers, and many visited places are cleared of mines,
however ruins and their vicinities often are larded by "silent death"
literally. The cleared away sites usually are designated by numbers of
white stones or the tags, dangerous - red. However many and many
hundreds kilometres of roadsides, fields, gorges and passes conceal
till now in themselves explosive tons, therefore to depart from the
laid tracks it is possible only accompanied by conductor well knowing
district. However and they are not a firm guarantee of safety -
opposing groups often expose charges on already cleared of mines sites.
Especially it is a lot of them on roadsides of roads round large
military bases, round the padded or broken combat material and on
mountain streamers. It is not necessary to lift from the earth seemed
interesting subjects - many of them can appear mines-traps or their
elements.
The special attention should be turned on safety of women. They are
recommended to appear in streets only accompanied by the man, to wear
the modest clothes as much as possible closing a body (trousers or long
skirts) and to cover a head with a scarf. It is not necessary to sit
down in unfamiliar cars (even to members of UN peace-keeping forces!)
and to accept offers of strangers to visit shop or a bench - all it
only accompanied by men, and only in the afternoon.
Laws and traditions
It is not recommended to come nearer to military bases and their
perimetres and furthermore - to photograph military facilities and
representatives of forces of the law and order. Also it is not
necessary to get the camera in mosques, in areas of large strategic
objects (the airports, bridges etc.) or to try to photograph local
women (the man if at them to ask on that permissions, are photographed
with pleasure).
Access to mosques and on territory of some mazarov for women is closed,
but always it is possible to ask council local residents about
relevance of visiting of such objects - in some northern areas it is
not forbidden, especially, besides, accompanied by the man.
Entry rules
The visa regime operates for all citizens, except the Islamic travellers who are coming back from visiting of Mecca and Medina.
THE VISA
Also the valid passport for travel abroad is necessary for all travellers.
Some simplification of a visa regime is given to journalists, business
travellers, members of the Red Cross and representatives of the
charitable and medical organisations.
For visa reception it is necessary to make preliminary inquiry in
embassy of Afghanistan or representing its interests abroad embassy of
Pakistan, and also to give the letter-inquiry from the Afghani citizen
or the organisation, the questionnaire-statement in English, the valid
passport, 1 photo of passport size and to pay gathering.
Departure from the country also demands permission reception.
Tourist and transit visas by mail are not made out.
How to reach
There is a set of ways to get to Afghanistan (by planes, trains, buses).
In addition
Kabul
The country capital is located in the centre of east part
Afghanistan, in a valley of the river with the same name, at height
about 1800 metres above sea level (one of the most high-mountainous
capitals in the world). The main economic and cultural centre of the
country based by Baburom in 1504 as capital of Mogolsky empire, Kabul
has also strategic value because of affinity to the important pass
Hajber (Hajbersky pass, 1030) in mountains between Afghanistan and
Pakistan. In 1747 Kabul became a part of the independent Afghani state,
having replaced in 1770th years in a capital Kandahar role. Now it is
picturesque enough, though and considerably suffered from events of
last years, a city occupied mainly by Tadjiks and gradually restoring
the infrastructure.
Its main sights still there are numerous mosques (masdzhid): the
Vazir-akbar-khan, Sherpur (Hadzhi-Jakub, 1957), Bullets-hishti (the end
of XVIII century, it is restored at the Zahir-shah in the late
sixties), the Shah-to-shamshira (the Mosque of the master of two
swords, the beginning of XX century, is restored in 2002) near to the
mausoleum Timur-shah, the centre of carrying out of many national and
religious celebratings - a mosque of Idga (Idgah, XVIII century), still
under construction Masdzhid-Abdurrahman and others. Many of them have
medrese, known on all country and abroad.
Old monuments of capital concern: the mausoleum of "the iron emir" the
Kabr-emir-abdurrahmana (it is initially constructed in 1880-1901 as a
palace) in park Zarnegar at the area of Pushtunistan; an ancient
citadel of Ball-gissar (under legends, has been based in V century d.C.
legendary "white gunnami") with its almost 30-kilometre wall stretched
on southern slopes of a ridge of Sher-Darvaza (unfortunately, has
remained no more than 20 % of this construction, but even they are
quite often inaccessible to visiting - in vicinities many minefields,
and the fortress is occupied by army garrison); a fort Pricked-Pushta
in northern part of a city; the mausoleum Timur-shah (1816),
transferred capital from Kandahar to Kabul; the well-known gardens of
Babura (Bahi-Baber, XVII century) in a southern part of a city with a
mosque (1640) Summer pavilion Abdurrahmana and tombs of the emir, his
wife, the daughter and emperor Dzhahangira; a Christian cemetery of
Shahri-Nau, a palace of Darulaman (Daruljaman, the beginning of XX
century, modern residence of parliament of the country), and also a
republic Palace (1883) - present president residence and the country
governments.
The national museum of Afghanistan (Muzjam-e-Milli, it is opened from
Monday till Wednesday, from 8.00 till, on Thursdays - from 8.00 till),
Darulaman close to a palace, in due time was one of the largest
collections tsentralnoaziatskogo art and historical meetings in the
world. In board "Taliban" the most part of collections has been simply
plundered, and only third of exposition up to now has remained. However
the collection is gradually restored, and even that part of subjects
that has escaped, allows to rank this museum as number of the best in
region. Also are worthy a modest Kabul zoo (the Bahi-ball park, the
area of Pushtunistan with its most popular cinema of "Ariana",
prestigious area the Vazir-akbar-khan round the mosque with the same
name is opened from 6.00 till daily) in area Navabad, a monument to the
leader of Northern alliance Ahmad-shah Masudu (2004) and even the Kabul
golf club on Karha-Roud (the road conducts to a dam and a picturesque
water basin of Karha.
Round Kabul also many interesting places - lake-land Karha in 9 km from
a city, fascinating gorge of Tanga-Garu on the way to Jelalabad,
reserve of Chords-kabul, picturesque valleys of Guldara (the Valley of
colours) and Logar, a mortar of Shevaki and Minar-and-chakari in 17 km
from capital, ruins of several mortars, monasteries and defensive walls
near Jahdara, lying to the north from Kabul tiny village
Kala-and-hadzhi-sahib with the big mausoleum and a unique mosque on
style of this respected sufija XVIII centuries, nearby Tadjik village
Deh-Jahijja (the native land of Hadzhi-Sahiba), a relic the
Pasha-sahiba (known sufist and the mystic of XVIII century) in
Shares-minar, village of Hvadzha-Moscow swindles with its relics, a
victory Arch, gardens of Darra and a mosque in Pagmane, and also a
charming summer palace of emir Habibully (the beginning of XX century)
near to this small town.
The Ottoman, ruins induistskogo complex VII-IX near Tapa-Iskander are
not less interesting centuries a valley of Pagman to the West from
capital where among gardens and mountains rich country houses of the
old Afghani nobility, a valley of Shomali, picturesque village of
handicraftsmen and artists of Ishtalif in a fertile valley Kokh-Daman
to the north from Kabul are located, terrasnye gardens more low
(Kokh-Daman was one of the centres of distribution of this religion and
on its territory the set of historical monuments is scattered:
Serai-Hodzha, Deh-Kepak, etc.), and also about ten archaeological
sites, generally the thrown.
And to the north of capital, from Bahi-ball suburb, the road on Hooks
and znamenityjpereval Salang connecting capital with northern areas of
the country begins. Lengthways are expensive it is possible to see
ruins buddistskoj mortars of Top-Darra, a place of Gulgundai where
every year (April-May) is spent festival Argavan, a city of smiths of
Charikar, snow-white trehsotmetrovye dunes of Reg-Ravan, excavation
buddistskih monasteries of Paitava and Shotorak on a hill
Kokhs-Pahlavan (the medieval city of Kapisa here settled down), old
hydroelectric power station in the most beautiful spurs of Hindu Kush
near the Dzhabal-moustache-seradzh (light Mountain), a tunnel of
Salanga (it is constructed by the Soviet experts in 1964 at height
nearby 3363) and glacial lakes over it (more often them name Hidden, or
Secret lakes), a picturesque valley of Firishtakan, and also the trout
rivers Hindzhan and Anderab.
Pandzhsher
The beautiful gorge of the mountain river Pandzhsher (Five lions) lies
in the northeast of Afghanistan. The mountain province with the same
name is occupied by Tadjiks (pandzhani) and is widely known for beauty
of the mountains, characteristic local constructions from the burnt
clay, collected in reminding beer honeycombs of settlement, and also
heaps of the broken military technology on roadsides. But more all
these places are known as the native land "pandzhsherskogo a lion"
Ahmad-shah Masuda - the field commander who has become famous at first
for the actions against the Soviet armies, and then as leader of
Northern alliance - the unique Afghani formation which has entered
struggle against Talibs. Here, between Dzhangalakom (native village
Masuda), Honizom and capital of a province of Bazarak, its memorial
tomb (an input inside free, it is necessary only, as well as everywhere
in the country to remove footwear before a threshold) is located also.
Also the beautiful mountain lake Andzhuman and the pass (4450) with the
same name, a unique archaeological site of Kapisa (Begram) near the
Kabul line and buddistskaja a mortar of Ooli-Nadir about it, the
magnificent park Bahi-Umumi, one of the most beautiful in the country
gorge Havak and the river Pandzhsher, five picturesque valleys of
Kashkana, ruins saffaridskoj (X century) capitals of a province near
Gavara, the first iron suspension bridge of Afghanistan (it is
constructed by English experts in 1911) over Gulbaharom, a relic the
Hadzhi-woman behind pass Garav (Gharau), nut woods of valleys of
Chardeha, beautiful lake Naglu and nearby "capital of shepherds" Tagao,
a complex of mosques and the mausoleum Kala-and-hadzhi-sahib,
fascinating gorge of Tanga-ashes and a beautiful valley of Guldara (the
Valley of colours) with an archaeological site of Saka (Buddhist ruins
of IV century d.C.) are widely known.
Nuristan
Lying in 300 km to the east Kabul the poor and remote historical
area of Nuristan (the Earth of light) is a part of provinces of Kunar
and Badahshan and almost all is located within five valleys of
picturesque foothills of Hindu Kush. These earths called long time the
Earth incorrect (Kafiristan) as to the XIX-th century middle local
tribes desperately resisted to Islam acceptance (even great Tamerlan
could not subdue these earths), and only the campaign Kabul "the iron
emir" Abdurrahmana in 1895 has broken their resistance. Till now here
the set of the local adverbs entering, by the way, in a separate branch
indoevropejskih of languages is used, the shape of mountaineers is not
similar to a phenotype of Afghans - here many people with quite
"European" appearance and blue eyes, and the clothes and music are
considerably excellent even from the nearest neighbours. Tourists here
do not get almost because of remoteness and bad roads (and also, in not
smaller degree, because of appreciable counteraction of forces of the
law and order) though here is on what to look - the nature of Nuristana
dika and is untouched, and it is not less historical monuments, than in
any other region of the country (however, a question of their safety
costs as sharply).
To the main sights of a province
usually carry a XX-th century fort on a place of the old lock in Asmara
(29 km from Asadabada), a beautiful valley of Bashgul, old capital of
kingdom Gorid - Shahri-Zorak (180 km to the northwest from Kabul), the
large quantity of the wooden track signs executed in ancient traditions
of the local people, and set of the picturesque local settlements
located usually as much as possible is close to tops of mountains and
connected among themselves characteristic suspension bridges and
magnificently abrupt tracks.
Balh
Northern province of Balh lies on the earths of legendary Bactria, or
Baktriany known still since Zarathustra (here he was born, and in these
edges it had first followers). Bactria in the ancient time was famous
for the cavalry (whether surprisingly, what one of two breeds of the
camels who were so successfully used for this purpose, is called till
now baktrianami?), fantastic fertility of the earths and independence
of the people, however greatest of ellinisticheskih the antiquity
states here prospered - empire Selevkidov and the Greek-Baktrijsky
kingdom, and here the Greek language has been extended not less, than
local dialects. Even after falling of mighty empires this earth has
kept the unique culture and traditions, and its historical monuments
enter into number of the best in region.
Chief town of an ancient kingdom was Old Balk, ilibalh as it is
accepted to name it today. One of the most ancient cities of the
planet, mentioned in Vedah and Aveste as Bahdi, it was the native land
of Zoroastra (Zarathustra) and its possible place of a burial place,
capital of Baktrijsky empire and the Kushansky kingdom. In VII century
d.C. the city has been destroyed by Arabs, but by 725 year is restored,
then again wiped off the face of the earth Genghis Khan armies
(1220-1221), but during an epoch Samanidov and Timuridov becomes again
the important centre of trade and a political life of region. Today the
unique historical kernel of the Old city surrounded with nine-metre
walls in the general extent about 11 km (towers of southern contour
have remained in quite decent condition), is considered one of the most
interesting objects of the country.
Here it is possible to see ruins of an ancient city of the Ball-hissar,
lying in the Central park and the mausoleum of seminary student
Hodzha-Abu-Nasr-Parsa revetted with tiles (XV-XVI centuries) with a
nearby tomb of Rabii Balhi (the known Persian poetess) and medrese the
Said-subkhan-kuli-khan from whom only arch gate (have remained XVII
century); the earliest Islamic monument in Afghanistan - a beautiful
mosque Masdzhidi-but-gumbad, or Masdzhidi-Hadzhi-Pijada (IX century);
the Bog-rustam hill under which the Buddhist pagoda (III century BC), a
hill of Tahti-Rustam is based - the location is no time a huge Buddhist
monastery (in VI century d.C. here was more than hundred these cult
constructions) and a prospective place of origin zoroastrizma, and
halfway between Balhom and Mazar-i-Sharif there are ruins of a relic
and a mosque the Tahti-pool.
Province capital - it is possible to translate Mazar-i-Sharif, whose
name as "the Noble relic" or "the Sacred tomb", lies all in 19 km from
Balha. The city has been built round a prospective tomb of Caliph
Hazrata Ali, or Ali of the bin-Talib, the son-in-law of prophet
Mohammed (the tomb has not remained as has been destroyed by Genghis
Khan soldiers though an official place of a burial place of Ali the
mausoleum in Nadzhafe is considered, Iraq). The burial place of this
esteemed sacred serves as a worship place, and round it the well-known
complex of Rozii-Sharif, or Hazrat-Ali (the Blue mosque), being the
main sight of a city is built.
Bamian
The province Bamian lies severo-to the west capitals, on northern
slopes of a ridge the Woman and in a valley Bamian, at heights about
2590 m. It is one of the most ancient cultural centres of region, in II
centuries d.C. mentioned as the large religious and political centre.
Its main sight until recently were two unique sculptures of the Buddha
(38 and 55 m in height), cut out between II and V centuries d.C. in a
hillside in the top part of a valley. However in 2001 Talibs have blown
up these unique statues, and now here it is possible to see only a heap
of stones, there is no time hiding statues of a niche in a rock and the
whole cave complex (about 750 caves) to Kafirkala in whom there lived
monks and pilgrims from all Asia.
Capital of a province and its main transport centre - the city of
Bamiannahoditsja below caves. As well as the majority of cities of
region, it is very old (the first mentions of it concern to V-VII
centuries) and has been completely destroyed by Genghis Khan armies.
Now it is sad enough city in which usually nobody is late. However in
its vicinities it is possible to find out ruins of fortresses of
Shahri-Golgola, or Shahri-Gulgula (the City of sighs, V-IX centuries),
and Shahri-Zohak (IX-XIII centuries, 15 km to the east of Bamian),
numerous caves with traces of a wall list (V-VII centuries) in a valley
of Foladi, by miracle escaped small (nearby 6) statues of the Buddha in
a valley of Kakrak, and also is bright-dark blue karstic lakes
Bandi-Amir (75 km to the West from Bamian).
Ghazni
The province of Ghazni lies in 140 km jugo-to the west Kabul, at height
of 2225 metres above sea level. Its capital is the city with the same
name, under a name of Gazna known since VII century as the brisk centre
of the Buddhism. However in IX century the city has been entirely
destroyed, but restored by Arabs and transformed into capital of huge
empire Gaznavidov. In 1151 of Ghazni again collapses armies of Gorida
Alauddina and it is again restored, but in 1221 of an army of Genghis
Khan again wipe its off the face of the earth. And again Ghazni rises
from ruins that in XVI century to enter into empire of Moguls, and in
1747, at Ahmad-shah Derrani, in structure of the Afghani kingdom. So
rough and the city tragic story has destroyed almost all it there is no
time the well-known monuments. However up to now send in addition a
citadel of Ghazni (XIII-XVII centuries) - one of the most impressive
fortresses of Afghanistan, the well-known minarets of Ghazni - east and
western (they are XI century), a tomb of sultan Mahmuda Gazna (XI
century) In a garden of Bahi-Firuzi, or Rauza, and a tomb of his father
Sebuktidzhina on a slope to the north from the minarets, almost the
remains which have completely disappeared under a layer of earth of a
palace of sultan Masuda III (XI century), the mausoleum of one of the
famous poets of a city - Sanai (XI century) on an old cemetery to the
north from the river, carefully restored tomb of Abdul Razzaka, and
also huge buddistskaja a mortar (III-VI centuries, height to 22), found
out during excavation on a hill of Tepe-Sardar. And the city is known
today mainly for the fine market on which the goods from all
Afghanistan and the surrounding countries are flown down. The card of
Ghazni are its silver products and raincoats from the embroidered
sheepskin and a skin "pustin", or "pushti" which are, perhaps, the main
goods in the local markets.
Jalalabad
The capital of area of Nangarhar located jugo-to the east of Kabul and
adjoining on Pakistan, is the ancient shopping centre connecting
regions of the Central Asia through Hajbersky pass with India and
Pakistan. The city lies in the present a mountain oasis where grow up
oranges, rice and a sugar cane, therefore it is no wonder what exactly
these edges have been chosen for placing of capital of an ancient
kingdom of Gandara. The city has been erected by Baburom and its
grandson Akbarom - legendary governors of a dynasty of Great Moguls,
and then it long time was winter capital of the country. Jelalabad has
strongly suffered during tragical events of the middle-end of the XX-th
century, and it there are numerous sights almost are completely
destroyed. However there is a hope that except the almost done not
suffer complex of the mausoleum of emir Habibully and its relatives, in
the near future will be restored a palace of Seradzh-ul-Emorat (1910)
and "royal gardens" Bahi-shahs.
In vicinities of Jelalabad many historical places, as it is no wonder -
on poverjam in these parts lived the Buddha in one of the
reincarnations. The most considerable archaeological site of region the
village Adda is considered (11 km jugo-to the east Jelalabad) round
which it is revealed about thousand buddistskih mortars and a complex
of a Buddhist monastery Topa-and-shotor (however, safety of these
monuments also raises the big doubts), the city of Mehtarlam with its
relic of Mehtar-Lamak among the extensive gardens stretched on a
terrace over a dry channel of the river, and also village Nimla with
gardens of Moguls.
In 180 km jugo-to the east Jelalabad the 53-kilometre pass in a
mountain chain of Hindu Kush, the connecting Afghanistan with Pakistan
begins znamenityjhajbersky pass-. Having in the narrowest part width
only 3 metres, this pass has long and frequently a tragic story. Here
Aryan tribes have found a way to Southern Asia, here armies Darija (VI
century BC) Have laid a way to Punjab and India, in 326 to n. e this
way have passed Alexander the Great armies in them "a throw to Indus",
armies of Arabs and the tataro-Mongols, brought Islam to India went
this pass, and through Hajber British have intruded in Afghanistan -
and it only an insignificant share of aggressors passing here. As a
result this narrow strip of the mountain earth surrounded with rocks in
height to 300 metres, is the witness of the considerable quantity of
armies of intrusion in the history of mankind. But it also the major
site of trading ways, an element of the well-known Great silk way and
many karavannyh tracks, and neighbouring slopes store many interesting
historical places and possibilities for productive leisure, therefore
here frequently it is not less tourists, than dealers.
Herat
The most northwest province of Afghanistan, Herat lies in spurs of
ridges of Siahkoh and Safedkoh. The province capital, the city of Herat
(from Kabul) is considered 550 km one of the most beautiful and most
ancient cities of Afghanistan, and date of its basis carry at least to
V century B.C. For possession this convenient strategic centre
Alexander the Great and Arabs struggled, Tamerlan (made in 1381 its
capital) and Ahmad-shah Derrani, and today it is the largest trading
and export centre of the country, the greatest city of the western part
of Afghanistan.
As the main sights of Herat are considered a magnificent Friday mosque
of Masdzhidi-Dzhammi (XIII century, the mosque second for height in the
world - 65); a complex of Musalla (1417) with six minarets (in more or
less whole kind there is only one), the mausoleums of daughter-in-law
Tamerlana Gohar-Shad (the complex is an exact copy the Gur-emir in
Samarkand) and Alisher Navoi; four falling off minarets of sultan
Hussein Bajkara - everything that remains from constructed by it
medrese (1417); located in 5 km to the east of city line the
Gazar-hectare complex (1425) - a relic sufija Abdulla Ansari and poet
Abder-Rahmana Harava, or Dzhami (XV century); nearby old park
Tahti-Safar, a central square of Charms-boughs with its four markets, a
fortress Kala-and-ihtijaruddin (1305) on a hill in the western part of
the Old city, and also the graceful arch bridge of the Bullet-malan
(roughly XIV century) To the south from the Old city. The set of
samples of architecture of the period Timuridov can be found out in
village Kohsan (105 km from Herat).
Kandahar
Kandahar - the second-large city and the main shopping centre of
Afghanistan, capital of the province with the same name in the south of
the country and the historical centre pushtunskih tribes. Legends say
that the city has been based by Alexander the Great in IV century BC
and repeatedly was a part of various empires, from Persian to
mogolskoj, however modern Kandahar has been based a little away from an
ancient city, practically for no reason Ahmad-shah Durrani.
The main treasure of Kandahar - a fragment of a raincoat of the Prophet
- is in a mosque Yes-kerka-sarif-ziarat. Access to it for nemusulman is
impossible, however it is possible to see other city monuments - the
graceful octagonal mausoleum Ahmad-shah Durrani (XVIII century), a
citadel of Ark (XVIII-XIX centuries), a mosque of Dzhame-Mui-Mobarak (a
mosque of Hair of the Prophet, XIX century), the central floor space of
Charms-boughs with its streets-markets Herats-markets, the Shah-market,
Kabul-market and the Shikarpur-market; the area of Shahidanu-Chouk (the
area of the Fallen martyrs) with a small monument (1946-1948); a relic
the Hazratzhi-woman (XVII century) ; A Kandahar museum; the ladder
constructed ostensibly by Baburom and a grotto of Shihl-Zina ("Forty
steps", 4 km to the west of a city); ruins of an old city the
Zor-sphere nearby (old Kandahar has been destroyed in 1738 by armies of
Persian shah Afshara) with its ruins of a palace of Kasri-Noranie; a
relic the World-sahib; the mausoleum the World-vais-woman (10 km to the
west of a city); relics the Woman-bring down in 8 km to the north of
Kandahar (the valley in which this monument is located, has become
famous for numerous fights between the Afghani and British armies in
the middle of XIX century) and Sher-Surh (the Red lion, 5 km to the
south of a city, here there took place crowning Ahmad-shah in 1747),
and also the archaeological site of a bronze age largest in the country
in Mundigake (56 km to the south of a city).
The large quantity of mountain ridges, picturesque valleys and unique
environment give excellent conditions for active kinds of rest, but
owing to the known reasons this kind of tourism here practically is not
developed. Fine natural conditions for tourism have northern areas
Karez-ah-amir, vicinities of Charikara and a valley of Chakardara,
mountain areas of Hindu Kush, and also the river Badahshana and
Samangana.
Iran
Capital: Teheran
Money: the Iranian rial (IRR, IR), 1 USD = 9186.0 IRR
Time zone: GMT +4
The description
Iran - the country of the present exotic. The thousand-year history and
bright Muslim colour, and also rather a small amount of tourists will
make travel to Iran really unforgettable acquaintance to unique
culture.
The state Iran - is obvious not that place where go to sunbathe or have
a good time in night clubs, but for travellers who wish to study
culture of the country, to get acquainted with a way of life of people
and historical sights is an ideal possibility to receive weight of
impressions.
Iran - one of the centres of occurrence of a civilisation on a planet,
the birthplace of one of the greatest empires of the world and one of
the most original countries of Asia. The extensive country stretched
from the warm sea to snow mountain tops, Iran has a unique set of
rather interesting monuments which can be considered as property of all
civilisation. In country bowels the richest historical relics are
hidden: ancient ruins, dilapidated cities, statues and archeological
excavations of ancient dynasties meet here continually.
Travellers will find here ancient cities, many of which quite
comfortably feel and presently, unique samples of art and architecture,
with precious oases and green woods of mountain areas, a strange story,
only which official sources total waterless deserts about 5 thousand
years, and the original people with their unique culture, examples of
thousand-year coexistence of the most different religious communities
and one of the societies most closed on the earth, the enormous
cultural heritage carefully preserved, nesmotrja on any peripetias of
history, and century traditions of arts and crafts. All these contrasts
also do Iran by unrealizable dream of many travellers.
Geography
Iran - one of the largest states of
Southwest Asia (the area of 1,65 million in sq. km). In the north Iran
is washed by waters of Caspian sea, in the south - the Persian and
Omansky gulfs. Borders on Turkey (in the northwest), Afghanistan and
Pakistan (in the east), Iraq (in the west), and also with the countries
of the former USSR - Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan (in the north).
Along the Caspian coast mountains Elburs with the highest point of the
country - a volcano Demavend (5604 m.) were stretched. In the country
centre there are deserts Deshte-Kevir (the Big Salty desert) and
Deshte-Lut. In Iran few the big rivers, the main river - Karun. The
largest lake - salty lake Urmia.
History
The history of Iran, or the Persian history, originates since 6
centuries BC when in region tsar Kir Great Ahamenitov from a dynasty
began to operate. The dynasty Ahamenitov has based the first Persian
Empire which was a prototype of modern Iran.
In 4 century BC Alexander the Great has grasped Persia, after the
victories over Greece, Egypt, Turkey and Iraq. Despite three peace
proposals of Darija III, Alexander has grasped Shush. From here it has
directed the armies through mountains on the east and has grasped
Persepolis. After Alexander's death in 323 year BC, its empire has been
divided into three parts which three dynasties operated. Governors of
Persia of a steel of Seleusidy. But it was difficult to them to
supervise numerous ethnic groups, in particular a tribe of nomads of
Parfjan which have occupied the most part of Persia and Sasanity have
held on here till 3 centuries AD have come from the central regions of
Persia which were not under the control parfjan. They have brought with
themselves zoroastrizm and have started to develop cities and trade,
but as a result of them Arabs who have come here in 637 year AD have
superseded
Arabs have held on here till 1050. They have turned local population
into Islam, have entered the new Persian alphabet and have introduced
Islamic culture. Arabs were superseded by Turks who in 1051 took
Isfahan. Despite numerous revolts, Turks have kept the domination in
region till 13 century when Genghis Khan hordes here have come. In the
end of 14 centuries the power of Mongols oslabla, and in Iran was
established a dynasty Timuridov, but upon it put pressure tribes of
Turkmans, Turks-osmannov and the European colonists-Portugueses.
At board of a dynasty Safavidov (1502-1722) Iran was a part of huge
Persian Empire. Great Shah Abbas I and its successors have kept a
Shiism and have restored Isfagan, but this dynasty has fallen in the
beginning of 18 centuries, after intrusion of Afghans.
In 1779 Aga Mohammed Han has united Turkish gajarov has entered into
Iran and has transferred capital to Teheran. Governors-gajary
peacefully corrected in Iran till 1921, and they managed to adhere to a
neutrality during the First World War, but it was not possible to avoid
partial occupation of Iran by the British armies, aspiring to establish
the control over oil. One of last governors-gajarov has put forward
idea of elections and legislative assembly (Madzhlisa), but the idea
managed to be embodied only to the Persian khan Reza who became the
first prime minister in 1923.
During the Second World War Iran kept a neutrality, but British and
Russian have established here influence spheres not to start up here
Germany. After war Americans have insisted on leaving of Russian from
region, and the young Mohammed Reza who has received the absolute
power, began to come into contacts to the West. Within 30 years in the
country there was vnutrennja a struggle between the power and its
opponents. As a result, on January, 16th, 1979 the shah has left the
country. And some weeks after the recognised leader ajatolla Khomeini,
the head of opposition, have returned from exile, and have created the
Islamic Republic based on Islamic fundamentalism. During its board
there was an irano-Iraq war in which were lost hundred thousand
persons. Also, relations from the USA have seriously become
complicated. The reason, first of all, in huge stocks of oil which Iran
owns. And at present Iran in general enters in so-called "a harm axis"
thought up by the American government.
Nevertheless, Iran actively develops economy, a science and culture. In
a society even dialogue about softening of dogmatic usages, however is
carried on while it has not given results, in a kind of very strong
Muslim tradition in the country.
Climate
Climate of Iran - subtropical in the north and tropical in the south,
generally - continental and continental mountain. The coast of the
Persian and Omansky gulfs is in a zone of a hot and damp tropical
climate, the temperature fluctuates from +16-18°С in the winter to
+24-30°С in the summer, at rather considerable quantity of dropping
out deposits (to 1000 mm on slopes of mountains, to 600 mm on
ravninnnyh sites).
The central areas of the country are in the authorities of a droughty
subtropical climate, thus uniformity of weather conditions is strongly
deformed by a mountain relief. The temperature here fluctuates from
+3-8°С during the winter period to +30-32°С at regular rises in
temperature to +40°С and deposits no more than 250 mm a year. In
mountain areas Elbursa and Zagros mountains is much more cool (in the
summer +16-26°С, in the winter from-4°C to +12°С), and is
more damp (deposits drops out to 2000 mm a year).
The population
The population of Iran - about 69 million persons. In Iran lives more
than 60 nationalities, ethnic groups and tribes from which Persians (51
%) are most numerous, Azerbaijanians (24 %), gilaki and other
representatives of Turkic tribes (8 %), Kurds (7 %), Arabs (3 %), lury
(2 %), Turkmans (2 %), beludzhi, Armenians, etc. Besides constantly
live in the country of hundred thousand refugees from Afghanistan and
Iraq.
Official language of Iran - farsi (Persian). Also Turkic adverbs are
used, Kurdish, Turkish, Arabian, etc. English and French languages are
used in business circles.
As a whole Iranians poorly own foreign languages, and the tourist will
have a considerable problem in this respect. Owing to that the country
is almost unknown to mass tourism, local residents do not have special
stimulus to studying of foreign languages. In large hotels, at offices
of airlines, and sometimes the taxi drivers working at the
international airports rather not bad know English.
Religion
Iran - the Muslim state. The basic religion of Iran - Islam of Shiit
sense. He is professed by 89 % of the population (a Shiism - the state
religion of the country), Moslems-sunnity make 10 % of total number of
believers (there are also adherents of other Islamic rumours), some
part of the population professes zoroastrizm (0,1 %), a Judaism (0,3 %)
and Christianity (0,7 %). All religious communities use full freedom of
execution of a cult, protection of the cultural, social and political
rights of all religious minority is recognised in the Constitution of
Islamic republic Iran. Representatives of all faiths are presented in
Medzhlise.
Kitchen
Unlike the Arabian states, in Iran there is no great number of street
cafes and restaurants. And the tourist, as a rule, should spend certain
time for search of normal restaurant.
Thus, kitchen of Iran - one of the most ancient in the world. Besides,
the Iranian kitchen is enough sytna. A basis of many dishes - rice,
bread, meat, fresh vegetables, greens and fruit in every possible
combinations. Characteristic feature is very small cutting of meat and
its rare participation in a meal as the basic product - more often meat
is used as a component of difficult dishes.
Dishes from rice which here like and prepare quite traditionally are
especially picturesque, but on an exit something turns out unimaginably
tasty. It is necessary to try rice with vegetables and meat in nut
sauce "forehead-horesh", plov "polo" or "forehead", plov with fresh
greens "polo-sabzi", sweet-sour rice with raisin, almonds and oranges
"polo-chirin" and mnogi other versions.
Meat dishes - a basis of the Iranian cookery. Such dishes, as meat
rulet "to a jacket gasht", the big meatballs from meat, rice and
grasses to "jacket-berendzhi" or meatballs from meat, a nut flour, a
saffron and sugar to "jacket-nokodchi", stewed mutton with eggplants
"horeshe-badinzhan", meat with vegetables "ab-gusht badinzhan", stuffed
eggplants "dolme-badinzhan", pepper with a stuffing from meat and rice
"dolme-felfel" or usual dolma in grape sheet "dolme-bargmo" are widely
known...
In Iran bake excellent bread on quality which always is present on a
table in the form of flat cakes or rolls, and only the fresh. Many
restaurants even enter bread into the menu separate point therefore as
grades its great variety, and everyone has the feature.
Desserts of Iran at all their similarity with sweets traditional for
the East also possess a number of unique fig. They are not so sweet, as
in other countries of region, but are sated various napolniteljami and
have very balanced taste. Doughnuts with a pink syrup "bamie",
"shir-berenzh", "halvah" from the fried wheat flour, sugar, a saffron,
pink water, pistachios and almonds, "raginak" with a walnut,
pistachios, cinnamon and cardamom are considered as the present
masterpieces of culinary art Iranian "bahlava" with almonds, cardamom,
yolks of eggs and milk, "jar-gift-behesht" from a rice flour, starch,
pink water and pistachios.
National Iranian drink is tea which drink strong, without milk and
obzhigajushche the hot. Besides, juice from fresh fruit, dairy
cocktails, house yoghurt "mast" and a drink on its basis "duk", and
also kefir which consume not only as a drink, but also as a component
of many dishes is favourite.
Alcohol consumption in Iran is strictly forbidden, therefore even low
alcohol drinks here practically not to find, an exception make only
beer which that in general is not (actually it is a nonalcoholic malt
drink), and wine for religious ceremonies (nemusulmanam is on sale only
under the special permission).
Safety
Iran - safe enough state. Practically on all country it is possible to
move fearlessly enough at any time. Suburbs of cities and settlements
even taking into account rather low standard of living of local
residents are quite safe for movement. In streets many police and other
people in the form (local system of security service difficult enough),
thus many representatives of law enforcement bodies have the right to
demand documents, including from foreigners. Therefore insistently it
is recommended to have at itself some copies of the passport,
especially the pages containing personal dates and a visa mark, and
also the document confirming hotel accommodation.
Mutual relation themes between floors and appearance it is still actual
in Iran. For men of especial complexities is not present, unless it is
not necessary to go in shorts. With girls of nuances it is more.
Besides a scarf hiding hair (the bang can be left), it is necessary to
choose odezhu, brightening as more as possible up grace of forms. A
shirt (the jacket, a sweater) should hide hands to brushes, trousers or
a skirt - to cover ankles, as a whole a free cut - to hide a breast,
hips etc.
The pair travelling together, should watch the gentle impulses. To
follow hands it is possible. And here it is impossible to embrace in
the street, to kiss - too. It is excessive to say that categorically it
is impossible to suppose liberties of more intimate character, for
example, to concern backs, a stomach of the companion. The matter is
that Iranians will ambiguously apprehend such things. For them it is
exclusive wildness.
The alcohol cannot be got in shops and even hotels. Beer it is possible
to buy only the nonalcoholic. Infringers of "the dry law" are severely
punished. Much softer rules in territory of a zone of free trade on
island Kish, but also there operate restrictions on spirits.
To photograph official bodies, palaces, military facilities and
constructions it is strictly forbidden. It is impossible to photograph
local women, it is necessary to ask permissions to photographing men.
Shooting in the majority of public places, in ports and frontier areas
is limited.
Necessarily it is necessary to use sun-protection creams and to drink
more liquids, it is desirable mineral water or fresh juice. Because of
high insoljatsii on all territory of the country at an exit from a
premise it is necessary to use a headdress, and eyes to protect the sun
glasses which are not passing an ultraviolet.
Internet development in the country has begun rather recently,
therefore its distribution while is limited, but it develops prompt
rates. The main providers - NRI, and Tehran Web - render
"Pishgaman-Kavir-Jezd" the services only in big cities in which it is
possible to find out not numerous while Internet cafe. It is necessary
to mean that similar institutions usually are until late at night
overflowed by young Iranians, and it can not appear an empty seat.
Censorship on a number of the world resources which visiting is blocked
by the Iranian providers can become other problem. At times there is no
logic in this sort of restrictions as together with "hostile" American
news portals happens e-mail is inaccessible.
Entry rules
The visa is necessary for a trip to the country to Iran. For visa
reception it is necessary to give in consulate of Iran the
questionnaire, one photo of a visa format (for women till 30 years - it
is desirable in a scarf), the operating passport (passport period of
validity should be not less than 6 months) and the invitation of a
receiving party or the tourist organisation (voucher).
Reception of the time tourist visa for 15 days directly after the
arrival at the airports Isfahan, Meshed, Shiraz, Tabriz, an island of
Kish and Teheran is possible. Visa gathering in that case makes 50
euros or an equivalent in US dollars. On hands it is necessary to have
return tickets and proofs of presence of sufficient financial assets
for all period of stay in the country. However, in practice these
things seldom check. The visa it will be refused to the women who are
not carrying scarfs, and also citizens of Israel and the persons having
in the passports any marks of the state Israel.
Through border do not pass women in the clothes which are not
corresponding to rules (hands and feet to ankles should be closed,
there should be a scarf, a scarf or other element of clothes covering
hair).
Customs
The reasonable quantity of cigarettes and spirits for personal use, and
also gifts and souvenirs for the sum which is not exceeding is
duty-free imported. At import household the audio - a photo- and video
equipment, computer facilities and musical instruments for a private
use becomes a mark in the passport, granting the right to their
subsequent export from the country.
Import in the printed matter country where female and man's photos of
erotic character can be found out is forbidden. Moreover, usual
magazines where the Iranian customs officers will find out female
photos in bathing suits can be carried to a category of "erotic" or
even is simple without hidzhaba.
Import in the country of all kinds of alcoholic drinks, a video
production of the erotic and propaganda maintenance, a printed matter
in a Hebrew, berries, fruits, tubers and sprouts of plants (including
in the form of a herbarium or a collection), seeds, the soil, all kinds
of wild animals and birds (including products from a skin and
feathers), old books and magazines, drugs and the weapon is strictly
forbidden. The persons who have broken an interdiction for import and
export of drugs, are unconditionally sentenced to the death penalty.
|
|